Travis Kim

I love the cork for its tradition, but I wish every bottle had a screw cap

Wines in screw cap bottles used to be the dirt-cheap, get-drunk-quick selection at the local convenience store. Never would a bottle without a cork dare show itself on a restaurant wine list, or at a “respectable” wine retailer.

But the times they are a-changin’. And for the better.

That’s because corks are not perfect at doing their job, which is to keep wine in the bottle and air out. And some estimates are that up to 10 percent of all wines are tainted by bad corks that either let air in or that give off a chemical that taints the wine. But without getting too much into the whole cork-versus-screw cap debate, let me say I love the cork for its tradition and the process of removing it that adds a special element. That being said, I wish every bottle had a screw cap.

Why? The screw cap doesn’t let air in or taint a wine, and it doesn’t crumble and break apart, shedding dozens of little pieces down into the wine, when you open it. And they don’t require the use of a medieval-looking contraption to open the bottle.

So with more acceptance of the screw cap as a valuable piece of equipment that helps would-be-tainted bottles of wine taste better, rather than viewing it as a sign of a cheap wine, we have come a long way in making sure every bottle of wine tastes as it was intended by the winemaker.

A lot of bold winemakers are using screw caps for even their most expensive bottles of wine. And these days, you can rest assured that just because a wine has a screw cap, doesn’t mean it won’t be good — or better — than the corked bottle next to it on the shelve.

Here are some recommendations for wines from wineries that use screw caps:

• 2009 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc — This is often considered one of the best examples of Sauvignon Blanc anywhere in the world today, particularly of the New World style. This hails from the renowned Marlborough region of New Zealand and is a must-try wine for anyone who hasn’t had it. This wine is bold, with crisp, tropical flavors of mango, grapefruit, lemon and lime, as well as that traditional Sauvignon Blanc herbal and mineral qualities. This would go well with shellfish, particularly mussels, or most any Asian dish. It should cost about $26.

• 2008 Hogue Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon — This wine from Wasington State has flavors and aromas of cherries, blackberries, and a bit of the tobacco character that comes out with some time in the glass. It would go great with a lot of meat dishes, pasta or even a grilled portabella mushroom. It should cost about $11.

• Penfolds “Eden Valley” Bin 51 Reserve Riesling 2008 — This is a fabulous wine from Australia that has aromas and flavors of apples, pears, limes, melon and oranges. It should go well with seafood. It should cost about $20.

• Big House Red 2009 — This blended red wine from California is smokey with aromas of cherries, raspberries and a hint of leather. It should go well with anything from the grill, including vegetables. The price is about $10.

Don Baker is editor of the Dayton Business Journal and has been writing the Uncorked wine column for the past five years. Reach him at dbbaker@bizjournals.com. Call (937) 528-4420.